SAN DAMIANO AL COLLE (PV), 23 may – «I foul-mouthed the classical method 15 days ago: 52 months on the Lees, When would you like you are welcome». Through the messengers of social network, every now and then, I also get invitations like this. You what would you do? I do a phone to the sender and, a few days later, I present myself in front of the wine cellar Alessio Brandolini. We are in Boffalora, the highest locality of San Damiano, that deserves a jump just for the view: spectacular, Despite the afternoon.
Alessio has thirty-three years and, of face, It also shows less; on the other hand, the activity that today bears his name has made 142 years. He was the great-grandfather Charles to begin the cultivation of the vine in 1873, in this same place; the grandfather and Father Aristide continued Constant, that perhaps saw a future Steven is different. After graduating from accountant, Alessio seemed indeed intended for Faculty of Economics and Commerce: curiosity, passion and familiarity with the vineyard and the winery had the upper hand. Result: other than fiulòt (Kid, in dialect), I am in the presence of a doctor (Magistrale!) in wine-growing and wine Science, a pupil of Attilio Scienza.
Studies and numerous trips in Italy (Chianti, Langhe, Franciacorta, Valtellina, Valpolicella, Montalcino, Bolgheri) and France (Burgundy, Bordeaux) clarified soon and good ideas to the young winemaker/winemaker, that has focused the resources of own company (slightly less than 10 hectares of vineyards) on a few vines: rare case, in Oltrepò Pavese. High density, low yield in wort, use of synthetic chemistry minimized, long maceration period characterize the wines produced, already in recent years are reviewed by the most attentive. Alexis does not appreciate the system of designations and indications of origin – source of too many formalities and charges for small producers -, prefers that its wines are remembered by name and surname: his.
Given the compact dimensions, visit the winery quickly. There is everything anyway, from vitrified cement vats “1970s” – exalted at the time, then neglected, now come back into vogue – a couple of autoclaves for semi-sparkling wines, by barrique at pupitre, which here are not decorative: the rotation of bottles of classic method is carried out by an expert contributor and owner.
The identification between the cellar and Maison is absolute: I climb a ladder and within in your living room, which turns into the tasting room. A generous tray of salame di Varzi and coppa piacentina welcome me, This does not hurt.
Of Brandolini already enjoyed the three reds from grapes croatina: The Cassino, Bonarda lively and perfect as vino quotidiano, The Breath, Bonarda more structured and firm – especially – The Benefit, reserve the date from which soft spiciness refinement in barrique is expertly balanced, in acidity, the balance of a 15% by Babar.
For this I promised "new and some surprise».
Childbirth with the classical method of Facebook message above: It's called Place in August, as the vineyard from which it arises. Pinot Noir grapes, extra brut (or, If you want, nature: We are on 3 g/l of residual sugar), vintage 2010, disgorging mid April 2015. Nice intense color, just copper nail; fragrant nose, just harvest grape scent. In mouth it is fresh, Enhancer marked and lasting.
I find the first surprise Alexius I reserved: untap the same foul-mouthed wine the same day, but the thousandth 2011: It is more gentle on the nose, but the palate reveals an intense and pleasant citrus note, combined with a freshness promise.
Step classic Rosé method, baptized August notes. Always pinot noir grapes in purity of 2010, same white disgorgement, It has a really beautiful and sharp aromas of small red fruits invite you to taste, of full satisfaction for the balance of freshness and softness (Here the residual sugar is about 7 g/l). Blackcurrant and herbs the most characteristic taste notes.
The second surprise of the producer is the first and also the twin August notes 2011 are encouraging.
Is the moment of Bardughino 2014, dry white wine from the malvasia di Candia in purity, grown in the same vineyard. On the nose the delicate aroma of the grape from blends to fruity (Pera, Apricot) and slightly balsamic; keeping your mouth in a light wine and unusual, that I like very much.
The last glimpse of the day is also the third surprise of Alessio, that for me opens a bottle not yet on the market: It will be called Al Negrés 2012, Pinot Noir grapes from Burgundian clones. In my notebook, While with his right hand pinch the last slice of salami of Varzi remained in the tray, I can write only an adjective: “Resounding!”.
And so just.
Azienda agricola Alessio Brandolini
Boffalora Fraction 68
27040 San Damiano Al Colle (PV)
Tel. and fax: 0385 75232, mobs.: 339 1619222
Facebook Page: Azienda agricola Alessio Brandolini