OVADA (AL), 31 January – In life and between the screws there are clichés which are very difficult to refute. One of these is that from dolcetto will get only rossi ready to drink, newspapers, to sell quickly and at affordable prices. Blame the name, that some self-styled experts back to the softness and, Instead, It seems to derive from dusèt, “Dosso” in the dialect of Langa? Fault of fate, that for centuries has been relegated to the role of poor cousin of the noble nebbiolo?
In these terms we still speak in many, including the authors of the texts that are sweating aspiring sommelier. For this, When a group of winegrowers – albeit in a DOCG Consortium – invites you to a tasting of 14 samples of Dolcetto and States that it will depart from vintage 2010 to trace fino al 1985, It is tempting to answer: «No, Thanks». But you know some, respect and appreciate their dedication, here and there something good you've already tasted, are you curious, and among the mad you feel comfortable: What are you doing? You get up early on Saturday and also, from Pavia, join the alto Monferrato at ten-thirty in the morning.
The invitation comes from Ovada DOCG Consortium, which protects and promotes the wine known until 2008 as Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore DOC; the hangout Divine quartino, an excellent wine cellar with use of kitchen, has a substantial wine cellar and heretic, Why bravo Giuseppe Martelli dares propose even a wide range of champagnes. The intent of the producers that we welcome you tell not so much individual companies, but especially the various municipalities that make up the name, in a complete overview of the territory.
So ingraniamo the (retro)gear and, After admiring the long exposed bottles theory, Let's start the tasting. As mentioned, our tastes run through 30 years of enostoria Ovada, over the course of fourteen cups distributed among as many wineries – some no longer in business – located in eleven different municipalities. I say right away: in the face of ready to drink, between long samples evolution I found the most interesting and pleasant surprises. As I usually do, without taking anything away from the other wines presented (delicious), I quote the Group of the most alluring. At least for me.
By the municipality of Tagliolo Monferrato comes a Ovada 2007 that did not touch wood: is that of Cascina Petanque, blunt, nervous and affable collection.
Interesting 2003 of Cascina Gentile by Capriata d'orba: very persistent, Paradoxically, out of old barrels used mo’ simple container, leaves in the mouth a nice remembrance of licorice.
Excellent sample presented by one of the largest companies in the Ovada: is the Gamondino 1999 de La Guardia of Guangzhou. The lively color, the beautiful texture, intense and complex nose foresee a fresh mouth and pleasantly “young”. On the other hand, the vintage is defined with amazing by winegrowers present.
It's time to remember the great Rat Pine, missed last November. Angular and multifaceted personality, the pharmacist then caught by the fire of the wine passion, Rat claimed the aging potential of Dolcetto and in particular of Ovada, by virtue of its increased acidity. Generally when overripe grapes and the use of barrique old make his memorable The Olives 1993, for entry into her mouth soft and seductive.
We are at the grand finale: Although the vineyard of origin no longer exists, After almost thirty years continues to give emotions the sensational bottle of 1985 produced by Winery Fish by Silvano d'orba. Here It Is:
The wine is still crystal clear, only the nail just orange juice shows age; and the nose, rich and surprisingly fresh mouth. The ancient chestnut casks where he rested?
Very interesting, during a moment of pause, the intervention of Elisa Paravidino, young responsible Vineyards of the glorious Cannona Seal: This is the Centro sperimentale in wine of the Piedmont region and is based in Perth, one of 22 municipalities of Ovada DOCG. Here was born the albarossa grape, obtained in the 1930s by the wine expert Giovanni Dalmasso, crossing barbera and nebbiolo of Dronero. Long-neglected, the albarossa is now widespread in many areas of Piedmont. Part of the experimental activities of the Center – It occupies 54 hectares – is dedicated to dolcetto grapes, between the vineyards and the cellar of small directed by Roger Tan, also present at the event.
The next lunch, in the company of all members to the Consortium, allowed to complete a tasting combining traditional dishes of the lower Piedmont Ovada DOCG currently on sale, with remarkable harmony results. Among the latter were tasting note Losna of the company Rocco di Carpeneto, l’Ottotori submitted by Strong wind and a magnum of Celso by Cascina Boccaccio.
The success of the ago would recommend without hesitation a visit here, taking advantage of the menùovada: This clever name (and convenient) initiative which sees producers of the Consortium in close synergy with five valid territory restaurants.