Rome| Sea Side

by Friday, June 20, 2014

Reinvent local, Open, then close, then reopen. There has never been so much wine ferment as today, they always talk, the events follow each other without interruption and mono and pluriformat local open and close with the same rhythm.

But this time the premises are important, the Cook is young and motivated, and also has other successful experiences, see ai Parioli metamorphosis of bravo Roy Caceres.

Here we are in the historic center (Maybe stoic to some ...), just a short walk from Piazza Navona and the proposal without ifs and buts is a new dimension of fish-based cuisine. New dimension? You, just so, because a proposal never granted and smart prices right next to the Senate.

Sea Side, the new challenge of Dario Tornatore, chef known for the experience at the enoteca regionale Palatium, looks like the great Roman public, the many tourists who unknowingly find an address in quality between many tourist menu.

Soft hints at pluriformat consists here in chic restaurant and bee, alias Instant Food Experience: in practice, Dario personally propose an aperitif prepared "at sight" with raw and even something cooked "on the fly". It would seem a lightweight formula, undemanding, but in fact it might be the true formula for success of this: then choose the glass or the bottle that you like more, wide choice, and then you do in Dario. Will never syncopated sequence but the rhythm just like bass tartare with some lime and ginger, the greater amberjack "simply oil and salt" and the ubiquitous tuna and capers. All raw quality that less touches and better. A reinterpretation of cuttlefish and peas cube will be the start of "hot" where we would have liked more greater incisiveness of pea powder. Great scene for the dumpling, single, with ricotta bottarga presented on the bubble to open, consistency and balance of tastes absolutely unique. And we come to dinner plate, oysters in a carriage, very original dish, of great substance and incisiveness and evocative as walking on the taste buds of those who grew up in Rome.

For the insatiable, You can also dine; two interesting tasting menu 50 and 60 euro and a card with the starters to 16 euro, the first to 18, the seconds to 26 and the dessert 10 are an excellent premise for a very interesting experience.

Marco Brotto Rizzo

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