The first was, Needless to say, Luigi Veronelli, throwing mayhem for the idea that the wine "was not just wine" and the absolute freedom of language that you can use to describe it. The second was Gourmet Geisha. And now Vinitaly has asked some renowned sommelier to tell the most curious inkling and outside the box than ever before have met in their tastings. Face powder or wild sex, Coccoina and cyclamen broken stem, gasoline or camphor, but also Panini stickers, baked leeks, bulbous and carob Burmese flower, up to a wine that reminds David Bowie.
These are some of the most curious aromas perceived in a glass of wine from the most famous sommeliers and critics of Italy – from Luca Gardini to Luca Martini, by Adua Villa Paul Kiosk, by Eleonora Guerini (Gambero Rosso) Gigi Brozzoni (Seminario Veronelli), by Fabio Giavedoni (Slow Wine) Enzo Oversteek (L'espresso), by Franco Ricci (Bibenda) Luca Maroni (Annuario dei Migliori Vini Italiani) until wine communicator Ian D'Agata – and "confessed" to Vinitaly, the most important international exhibition dedicated to wine and spirits, scheduled at Veronafiere from 6 al 9 April (www.vinitaly.com).
We start from Luca Gardini. THEthe most curious inkling warned by the sommelier world champion in 2010, is powder, in a tasting of old vintages of Barolo: «In an old vintage of Barolo Serralunga – spiega – I heard this dusty and slightly aromatic note that reminded me of face powder».
Sometimes warns 'the scent of wild sex», confesses Paul Kiosk, free avid taster and assessor of the Grand Jury Européen: «I heard it in a Champagne, a Pinot Meunier in purity. Other times I hear the glue PVA glue, often I hear Coccoina, a collection of coconut milk and almond, still other times, the broken leg of cyclamen, on the nose, that makes the idea of a distinct acidity».
Among the most curious inkling, The Panini stickers in a wine of Campania, Remember Eleanor Guerini, Curator of the Guide wines of Italy of Gambero Rosso: «A very peculiar smell, not the generic glue, It is the smell of Panini stickers, something that has to do with glue, but in that way only».
«One of the worst things I've heard is a smell of cooked leeks, of minestrone – says Gigi Brozzoni, at the helm of the Permanent Seminar – Luigi Veronelli in a red wine, not young, but not too old to justify it. Pleasant, Instead, the aromas of iris, di giacinto, bulbous flowers, very sweet and stroking. But one of the things I love best in wines, is when I hear a bit of leather or tobacco: I feel at home, quiet, reassured».
On the other hand, If a wine has a defect, its aromas can be really unpleasant.
«But the thing that surprises you most – supports Luca Martini, Ais sommelier-Italian sommelier Association, best sommelier in the world in charge of the "World Wide Sommelier Association – are the valuable hints found in everyday life, as the hydrocarbon in a Riesling, fascinates me very, a hint almost of oil, gas station, that identifies the territoriality».
Then there are impressions that make you go back with the memory, «as that inkling that I sensed once in a Verdicchio» about Fabio Giavedoni, Curator of Slow Wine Guide: «It reminded me of the smell that felt a little boy between players of a football team that played my uncle, a strong smell that I liked a lot and I never realized what had. I felt this wine, and then I realized it was smell of camphor, using a product to warm up the muscles».
And if the Director of L'Espresso Guide Enzo Oversteek is "the wicked flavor of too many so-called natural wines», Franco Ricci, driving Bibenda and new Italian Sommelier Foundation, Remember that time when he heard a strong scent of eucalyptus, then he turned his head and the vineyard was next to a huge forest of eucalyptus: «This episode – spiega – made me reflect on how Earth influences in grape scent, the territory that is the true wealth of our heritage wine».
With wine, of the rest, It takes a serious approach, but without becoming boring: a strange scent and really typical, perceived by the wine communicator Ian D'agata (Curator of Vinitaly International Academy, educational initiative aimed at professionals abroad) in a white wine of Apulia is an intense note of curry: «Seemed to have eaten a spicy dish, looked like chicken curry».
The scent "more crazy», warned by Luca Maroni, critic and author of the Annuario dei migliori Vini Italiani, is the call to pineapple in Italian white wine, the Idem 1998 to Feudi di San Gregorio: «I wrote just: We are on another planet, the planet of the fruit pineapple juice. Because at that time it was a wine light years ahead of others».
«I've always gone against the philosophy of scents that bring embarrassment and stave off the people you are following – says the Queen of sommelier and familiar face on the small screen Adua Villa –; There may be, but they are really large connoisseurs. I once overheard a colleague mention hints of Burmese carob: I'm allowed to pick up the phone. Though – confesses –, are strange from another point of view because I like to play a lot on syllogisms between music and wine: David Bowie, eclectic, Quick-change artist, and his music make me remember certain eclectic wines, that are transformed into the glass».
Glossary of "sensory Confessions" by critics & sommelier (non aspettatevi chissà cosa di piccante 😉 )
Face powder: dusty and slightly aromatic note
Wild sex: left to the imagination…
Vinavil: a feeling of plastic and chemical
Coccoina: a collection of coconut milk and almond
Cyclamen broken stem: makes the idea of a distinct acidity
Panini Stickers: It has to do with glue, but in that way there only
Baked leeks: smell of soup
Bulbous flowers: sweet aroma and caressing
Tobacco & leather: It feels at home, tandel, reassured
Petrol: an aroma of hydrocarbon and oil
Camphor: a smell reminiscent of the past
Wicked: taste of some so-called "natural" wines
Eucalyptus forest: the land involved in the scent of the grape
Curry: How to eat a chicken curry
Pineapple juice: “We are on another planet”
Burmese carob: ask a colleague
David Bowie Wine: eclectic, turns into the glass