Raspelli: «I, Sanremo and the time I decided to change profession»

by Monday, November 21, 2011


There is also who wants to Minister of development, so sa to highlight lesser-known products, but for all Edoardo Raspelli is the most severe critic of Italy and the familiar face of an increasingly successful transmission, Annecy Festival, aired by Rete4 all Sunday 12.10 at 13.30. At its 14th edition, Green Apple has become an unmissable event for the Italian public: born from the idea of agronomist Giacomo Tiraboschi, now scored the 13% share (with peaks of 22% in the first part of the program) and an average of 2milioni – 2,5 My viewers with peaks of 5-7mio viewers, being able to match the battleship of RaiUno. Paired with Hellen Hidding Raspelli each week goes around Italy to tell tales of agriculture, nature and environment, with an eye to the gastronomy, But despite the television to give him notoriety, the journalist is always tied to the printed paper, continuing to promote and reject hotels and restaurants from the pages of Printing in Turin. Was the 10 October 1975 When, on the orders of the then Director of information Courier, Cesare Lanza, Raad was printed the page with the address book restaurants become famous, "Black face", thus marking the birth of the true Italian gastronomic critics. And because of his attacks was sued more than 20 times by restaurateurs and winemakers – famous millionaire cause brought against McDonald's – but always acquitted by courts of half Italy for having done the right and duty to report and criticism. From 1995 his name appears in Who's Who in Italy and Reale Mutua Insurance has signed for him a unique policy: the taste and smell of Raad are covered for one billion old lire and make it "the man with the Golden palate". His reviews of hotels and restaurants (on Printing as in his book thetaliagolosa) not limited to descriptions and sterile listing: are real stories in which Raad, with a few strokes of a pen, manages to paint landscapes with precision and passion, flavors, atmosfere, sensations. A passion that every Sunday broadcasts on television with Green Apple and that led him to make even extremely curious enterprises, like that, occurred more than ten years ago, to be able to get hired in disguise as a waiter in a hotel on the Adriatic coast.

This year you are 36 years of wine journalism. What has changed in the restaurant business all these years?

Everything has changed. When I started writing about restaurants you go to eating out only to eat: There was still the pursuit of happiness at the table, locals filled only Saturday night and Sunday, and the area was stronger was the Veneto. Everything has changed in 1977, in the heart of the years of lead: Gualtiero Marchesi was born in Milan, to Cassinetta di Lugagnano opens the Antica osteria del Ponte, the San Domenico in Imola, at Piacenza, the Antica osteria del Teatro and the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence ... I remember that Frank Thomas Marks, then Secretary-General of sommelier, I said, "look at that in Florence there is a friend who opened a wine bar very nice and also makes some saucer". It was Pinchiorri, and we all know that temple of taste and wine has become. With these premises and in the 1980s began the revolution, passing from macedonia and fritto misto to Italian nouvelle cuisine, with people who went to the restaurant for self-gratification. And then, in the 1980s there was desire to spend, There was optimism.

And today?

Today we are facing for several years at a crossroads. On the one hand there is the tradition of restaurants proposal medium target, Apart from exceptions such as Reeds on oil, and other modern or modern voted in what I call "messing about pure" ...


The student is one who does not know what to put in the pot, invent combinations or scopiazzandoli, and this happens even in famous restaurants and lauded. We are all able to say good van Gemert, that Macaskill made history, but are the average local high, those of messing about, who has difficulty judging. There are too many for someone local are and instead wonders for me are culverts.

How come you don't often find in tune with the judgement of many of his colleagues?

Because I think I have a very sensitive palate, due to the great experience that I did, but especially to my dna, I made this gift. My father was hyper sensitive to many smells and tastes and made me grow without perfumes and aromas: so, my senses have enhanced. For this I think that my taste is more refined than many others and I get upset not only with the chefs that cazzeggiano, But even more so with those who do not understand their messing about: I'm talking about journalists and food critics my colleagues, counseling posts which do not go well.

But Raad like most review sites where he found good or bad?

What I like most write, in truth, are the new places. I hate being forced to return to the same locations. I seek happiness, I am a food and wine columnist, the tale atmospheres and emotions, I'm not interested in commenting on the ingredients as they do almost every other. I, then, do reviews overview. Of the rest, to each his job: I was born black reporter and that I also do with restaurants and hotels. I'm not a Cook, and I'm not going to pretend to do so as those who go on television to suggest recipes full of errors and then still sell millions of copies of books ...

The one time I thought I would almost want to change jobs, There has never been?

Yes, I'm thinking of two years. I arrived in 120 kilos, I had a heart attack, then I got. But I failed to lose weight until I resorted to obesity surgery and now I have the gastric banding: This means that I have to eat little, slowly, and chew very. And I have to drink Coca Cola, prescription, to digest. The dough I cut into small pieces, I eat with a teaspoon to get more time, While I'd be hungry because I like crazy food. All this for me is a torment, It also has two positive implications: I continue to lose weight and the senses are reinforced. The fact is that I should start immediately, in 1975, to taste instead of strafogarmi, but I like so much to eat ...

His perfect plate?

The shrimp from Sicily raw, maximum wetted with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

What are her three favorite chefs?

More that chefs are restaurants. One is the local to Civitella del Lago di Gianfranco Vissani, Surely the greatest Italian chef and one of the largest in the world. I love Runate fisherman, village of Canneto on oil, become unforgettable Cathedral of great Italian cuisine. The third is the Pinocchio of Borgomanero.

The best emerging restaurants, Instead, in your opinion what are?

Among the new features I think there could be the ancient Districts of Cuneo and the Edelweiss in Viceno of Crodo, in the province of Verbania.

And what will be the future of Italian restaurants, in your opinion?

I do not know, I see black sincerely… The restaurants now, except a few, are blank media, people are thinking how to pull a living and no longer has neither the time nor the budget to go out to dinner.

That has projects for the future?

I would like to make a Green Apple again for thirty years. Now we're all friends, the two staff directors, Michele Zito and Giancarlo V, up to the authors, Luca Liberati and Nicola Fountain. Then excites me always do new things: from the karaoke singer actor (for fun), I must say that from the professional point of view I did so many things that I only miss the Sanremo Festival ...

Then the dream of Raad is to present Sanremo?

Already I was asked to sing at the festival, then, Why not! I'd like to sing a song with Enzo Jannacci or Charles Aznavour, or with Roberto Vecchioni. If I were the presenter, Instead, I wish the Hunziker ... But I would do her valet, not vice versa.

In an interview with Alain Elkann she said she likes the food "and it's not just the palate gratification, for me is like sex ".

I do not know what is for me the best thing in life, If you eat or sleep. The third, certainly, is having sex, especially upon waking, having eaten and slept well.

(my interview on the November table 2011)


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