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Edoardo Raspelli and his jab at Adrià

by Friday, July 22, 2011

Today you got this email from a friend Edoardo Raspelli. I publish here in full. Good read!

The 31 July will close the restaurant of Ferran Adrrià.
When a local famous, over all a Cook's 48 years closes, is a defeat, a failure rather than a victory, but given the epinici that you are removing to and fro I remember a dissenting voice, mine, Ferran Adrià 's cuisine.
The following article (and I'll be happy if you want to use) wrote at the end of July 1999 It was published in the PRESS on an entire page of Italian Chronicles in early August 1999.
The title in nine columns of Dario Cresto Ab was:

FERRAN ADRIA’:22 PLATES OF DISAPPOINTMENT
More important than the Flint; most shocking of’ invention of the wheel. But the discovery of fire, other than the’ the invention of movable type, but the voltaic pile or radio transmissions by Marconi. His comparison, for the history of’ humanity, Penicillin is nothing, l’ electricity is a rediscovered by amateurs, a television play by children and the computer a discovered by four soldi. The turning point, l’ object that upset( Indeed, has already upset) the world( or, at least, l’ Italy), that will affect how a raging river, like an avalanche, as an earthquake, Customs uses traditions is there, within everyone's reach: in his smaller and cheaper model held even in the Palm of your hand; the largest type, the one liter or two liters, It keeps in the kitchen, in the heart of the kitchen. You put on the throne and, every now and then, down on her knees in front of you or you would like to exist. He, is God Siphon: It is manufactured in Austria, has a name that recalls the ease and a year is on everyone's lips. Goodbye kitchen, Goodbye ovens, Goodbye kitchen, Goodbye forever the traditional way of eating: today, tomorrow, the day after tomorrow, everything is going to be with you, God Siphon, Amen.
In Senigallia, the Madonnina del Pescatore, have already entered into the menu a dish made with God Siphon; always marches already ten restaurants have bought to totally change the way you prepare food. Dozens of Italian restaurateurs are making a real, authentic, confident and humble pilgrimage to see the God Siphon used by his genius, by his disciple. That disciple, Creator, craftsman, Duce and guide, is a young chef and restaurateur of the Costa Brava, Ferran Adrià, his remote local, at 70 km from the border with France, the sea, became one year l’ object of desire, the myth, the single thought of Italian cooks.
Began the’ last year the monthly Gambero Rosso, with a cover and 8 complete pages entitled balanced:” The Cook of the 21st century”. Since then, he has been a’ orgy of congratulations for the kitchen of the siphon: Il Gambero Rosso, transformed from restaurant critic for travel agency of the same restaurateurs, We brought the best Italian cooks; a manufacturer of Friulian wine it dragged, free, OSTI and journalists”‘ Special guests”; the Salone del Gusto in Turin and the Maurizio Costanzo Show they saw triumph; his kitchen is filled with interns to 3 million per week( excluding travel).
And that journey, to get up in the province of Gerona, three quarters d’ hour drive from Figueras, in the municipality of Rosas( that become Girona, Figueres, Roses if, instead of in Spanish, spoken like here, IE in Catalan).” (C)’ is a good reason to fly to Barcelona, take a’ rental cars, go back towards the French border and stop in Roses?” He wondered in’ August 1998 the Director of the Gambero Rosso? And I have to say I, to get to the beach where insists the restaurant El Bulli I did, drive, 1301 km?
Of Roses, bad town 10.000 in, popular Rimini along the Costa Brava, I thought worse: mark its historic Citadel on your left, where the cement dormitory and camping-take the place of the sunflower and maize. If you saw the Fuenti, Rapallo, Free courts of Rovato, There seems to be a Nirvana: the garbage piled up around the dumpsters, After you have done hundreds of miles Immaculate, will l’ impression of being in Italy.
You're not even ask: at the bottom of the sea walk, a white sign shows” Cala Montjoi, 7 km”. Go and impress: huge Oleander hedges cover l’ an artificial stream dry, then, among agaves and bramble bushes filled with more, enter in a harsh, wonderful Natural Park. What was supposed to be the Costa Brava! Heaven on Earth gives you seven miles of ups and downs, of ravines, of quiet coves, perfumes reminiscent of Sardinia.
The road offers some kilometre holes while, every now and then, painting on rocks, the snout of a dog breed Bullies indicates that you are on the right track.
A driveway between pines and Oaks, illuminated by discrete lamps, you all’ large shady Green Park overlooking the beach: all’ three small placide boat anchor, on the left a rustic building which is of music, below a’ self decided to shoot on the sand and, on the right, the elegant wheels, low and elongated, the most talked-about restaurant of the moment, a Three Michelin stars divided between a small veranda and a couple of salt, several among them, by cutting between the rustic and l’ elegant.
In the room, the chef's partner turns in shirtsleeves: by regular customers rests his hands on the table and the knee on the Chair free. Boys and girls who serve at the table are elegant and mysterious in their uniforms that make much ice Guards of the people. Are professional, careful, polyglot, available and efficient. And l’ efficiency must be the basis of their work, Since the menu( in handmade paper) door 14 dishes( among the 38.000 and the 64.000 lire each) but all, own all, require the tasting menu, 22″ things” listed in a small sheet also’ paper type Amalfi it for taste which I did of Crodo Salecchio (O Bagni), Novara, Torino, Savona, Cannes, Figueres, Roses, Cala Montjoi.
The revolution, the upheaval, the subversion of rules traditions uses costumes, will result in a nice succession only for aesthetes anorexic pilosans. The research will be sublime aesthetics, the ingenious technique, the masterful color sense, the more unique that unique presentations, but good food is from tutt’ the other hand, by tutt’ other dishes. When, ten years ago, Vissani offered me a fatty liver in sauce’ Watermelon, i.e. a foie gras… of water, When I made up for him the phrase” Grilled children”, well, in comparison, was a traditionalist, a conservative: Here c’ is pure invention, total creativity, pure provocation, total game, overall research of choc, taken by the nose by manual. What will he do this great Cook when the stall to take around? The wine list lines, Viva l’ Italy, Schiopetto, Kante, Gravner, Jermann, Martinetti, Ceretto, Gaja, The Chief French voerzio and strangers big Spanish: that anger drink so well and eat it so bad( Although the price of not tasting salt over the 153.000 lire).
The first foam arrives soon, just sitting, with a good whisky sauer to passion fruit, then the top five” dishes” will be only more challenging whims cocktail party that from restaurant: Crispy Sesame millimetric cubes( !), Crispy codfish( !!), Crispy seaweed(!!!), one teaspoon salt sauce with pine nuts and whipped, cooked wild rice in mo’ by popcorn, whose the cooking reduced to worms; cool stuff, slings yummy to munch on that would be good for the Pink Gin. And then he falls to the precipice.
A delightful short carries a ball of bread stuffed with oil and fried, lying on a white watery tomato sorbet; a spoon is a potato foam with a slight taste of coffee. Parmesan ice cream is amazing, the best thing about my whole experience at El Bulli by Ferran Adrià, the enclosing waffle is a masterpiece of taste, though, It is not an ice cream of Parmesan, but a Parmesan ice cream, then it is not but Grana Padano Parmesan, Finally, This dish Ferran Adrià, you find it by 1967 in Italian regional Recipes by Anna Gascon of Welds.
Another elegant calicino arrives: ” You should drink around here” It tells me the friendly waiter. The color is awesome: looks like gastroesophageal reflux of the protagonist of’ Exorcist. All’ the beginning is a hot cream of peas, the bottom turns into icy Mint: repellent.
The medallions are the freshest local seafood, soft, accompanied by a sweet passion fruit jelly. My enthusiasm for the announced” tagliatelle carbonara” lasted a second: on a flat transparent vitreous I arrived cold noodles of diafani created by a mountain of agar- agar broth, done so firm. Accompany them cheese cubes and raw egg. Beyond the name, do not chew even with the” Tortilla de patata”: a foam, not the first and not the’ last, of tubers with roasted onions and bottom, above, crude oil eyes.
L’ yet another transparent plate bearing piles: It is small seeds paprika, amarissimi, flavoured, with summer truffles pods: in c’ is a soft sauce, around yogurt sauce.
I love duck languages Chinese cuisine: Here come, lined up like toy soldiers, half raw and inconsistent, accompanied by slices of pears, the usual sweetish sauce( of lychees) and seafood sauce, meaningless jumble of gastronomy.
Scampi are wonderful freshness,” Finally you eat?!”. Are exorbitantly expensive, accompanied by fresh raw almonds and evanescent gelatin. Usual molliccità in the sauce that accompanies the raw sardine. Usual inconsistency in the mouth for the Lamb brain( the blood) and also for the pineapple coconut pancake and jougourt sauce fragrant fennel anise Mint, without sugar.
The desserts are three. Strawberry sorbet is stuffed with fresh cheese, accompanied by the usual gelatine( This, the Campari) where, Evidently, l prevails’ Amaro. The Mandarin cookie with chocolate ice cream is approached to a predominant( and terrifying) Sabayon with Lavender.
To eat all this menu( and the thing is singular and significant) ensure that you have, especially, forks spoons and knives.
A cutting board beautiful ever seen, steel and wood, carries a dozen small frivolities, by” Pequenas locuras”(” small Follies”). We found the crispy Sesame( and ridaje) with raspberry sorbet, the white chocolate cialdina, the” Lollipop” of lemon( i.e. a caramelized and flavored all Crystal’ citrus fruit), Another sweet lollipop… (Boh ?), all ice cream’ Watermelon, the Peppermint bon bon, the melon with Mint jelly, two great chocolates as a’ fingernail, chocolate sunflower seeds.
” Humor” ? Outside, along the deserted road back to Roses, in the dark, your headlights fall a’ car with a disheveled figure that you cover your eyes. Next all’ Auto, Standing, face the sea and the full moon, a naked man gives back. AND’ finished the ritual of’ love? L’ water returns to the’ water? The follies were at table or for the overhangs beyond the Bullies?

Edoardo Raspelli

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